Annual Lake Shannon Labor Day Brunch

Mom and Sylvia Cole only had each other as baby-sitters back in the early days of Lake Shannon. Now 5 decades later, they have each other as friends.


Thanks to Coles for hosting.


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Buyers/ Sellers, ask me about ‘Pocket Listings’

‘Pocket Listings’ are those that are marketed in controlled way. A good agent does this to the attempted benefit of the seller. When, how, and why is what we’ll look at. Anibal-Affiliates-RealtyNetWorth-LakeShannon-rainbow-colors-ducks-on-the-lake-dont-quack-up

‘Why’ is of greatest concern to the seller:

  1. A quote in USNews said: ‘… pocket listings can be a great way for agents and sellers to achieve a fair deal with less interruption in the seller’s life.’
  2. The article further goes on: ‘…Pocket listings can serve as a great private option for selling your home, as it limits the pool of buyers to those potentially willing to pay a premium for the ability to bid on the home before it reaches a broader market.’
  3. Perhaps you are away seasonally and don’t want easy public access to your address, or quick access to the home for unrestricted showings.
  4. You may be known in the area or have tenants inside and want a more controlled access.
  5. Pre-launch prep may still be going on. You are still making the home optimal for showing and know it also takes awhile for an agent to get their full marketing in place, but don’t want to miss someone that may come along now.
  6. You may wish to ‘test the market’ and not add all the specifics to the MLS sharing sites.

Personally, there are many reasons I use this technique, (and other times would never recommend it), and here you can see obvious reasons.Anibal-Affiliates-RealtyNetWorth-LakeShannon-duck-on-the-lake-dont-quack-up-2

  • MLS forwards to Realtor.com and the other ‘standardized’ magazine sites. There the marketing is very generic. There is no choice in what is or isn’t highlighted.
  • HIGHLIGHTING: For instance, can you highlight that 1 great panoramic view photo above the others?
  • DATA: If you’re flipping, do you want what you paid for the house on the same page as your ask price? If you home has recently dropped in value, a buyer may get scared away thinking ‘why?’.
  • ONE ON ONE PITCH: Further, wouldn’t you rather have your home showcased by itself instead of with a map of all the other area homes/ their prices/ etc.?
  • TIME ON MARKET: Perhaps you are marketing in a hot-market spring, then still marketing as your property market type cools down. So you make changes to the property &/or price. But, the world sees ‘time on market’. So what? Well, often buyers and agents get emails or sort by ‘newest first’. Those ‘old listings must have something wrong with them’.
  • PRICE ADJUSTMENTS: You may want to start at a lower price while you wait for the contractor to come and gut the lower bath, at which point you will be upping the price. Do you want Zillow to show that you increased the price (with no reason shown)?  Or, you may have started at one price until you found your perfect replacement house – now that you’ve found it, you want to substantially drop the price and ‘kick the place to the curb’. Those price adjustments are available to everyone in the MLS including the online sites and the agent. Do you think they will say ‘wow, these folks are desperate, lets low ball them!’? Really, website ‘price history’ changes don’t tell the whole digital story do they?
  • THOSE NOISY NEIGHBORS: Standardized MLS input forms will penalize the agent if they don’t input all the ‘fields’. You may wish to market you home for a bit without pricing. Maybe you want to show a real buyer the whole house, but want certain area photos password protected – accessible only by agents or buyers that have proven funding ability to purchase.
  • OPTIONS: Finally, there are a host of customizations available due to a sellers unique situation. Only you may know what these are. Sign/or not, show address in ads/or not, show outside photos to public/or not. You get it. Have your show publicly as ‘pending’ before its a solid deal can halt the flow of interest – showings – and ‘backup’ offers.

How:Anibal-Affiliates-RealtyNetWorth-LakeShannon-duck-on-the-lake-dont-quack-up

  • Use an _ a) local _ b)non-franchise _ c)broker.
    • If you have an agent, vs broker, listing your home, they will be following the brokerage standardized 1 size fits all approach.
    • Even more so when you have a franchise listing office.
    • If you have a subdivision house in suburban Atlanta, you’ll want a rather nationalize approach. Buyers could be inbound relocations, hence – MLS: good, Pocket: not so much. BUT, the more your home or area is more unique in nature, the more you are possibly better suited by a very structured marketing approach – for instance one that utilized ‘Pocket Listing’ approach.
    • Example of a ‘Pocket Listing’

Recently, a client of mine received an unsolicited mailer from a competitor agent/broker that said ‘…according to the MLS, your home is not for sale.’

Don’t be fooled by naysayers or articles you’ve seen via Realtor.COM / Zillow / Trulia and other sites. They earn huge advertising $$’s from ‘redirect’, ‘premier agent’ fees, and selling leads to realty offices. Its no longer 1975 when MLS was ‘king’. Its also no longer ‘2005’ when no one knew how to ‘do it better’ and by-pass these sites – when it better serves the client.


Caveat:  Realize that not all ‘sold’ info numbers show up online hence the computer value models can have huge margins for error. Make sure your agent will ‘co-operate’ with other offices to allow access with a shared commission arrangement as you negotiate.


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The Power Turn – not for show! (or, don’t try this at home).

What:Anibal-Affiliates-RealtyNetWorth-LakeShannon-barefooter-with-helicopter

  • The quickest why to spin an inboard ski boat 180 degrees just like a jetski, Seadoo, or other PWC. If pulling skier, you’re using a center mounted ski tow bar.
  • This was the traditional opening of many ski shows. Two boats driving toward each other, they pass, spin, and pass again.
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5G0fMUONHdg

Why:

  • This is the technique to get back to a skier asap if they take a bad spill.
    • I’ve used it to get back to a jumper that hit the safety wall, one that had his helmet cover his face after ‘fanny dunking’, and as a quick pickup to a stroke victim that didn’t want to give up skiing (we decided to retire dad’s slalom after his first fall) .
  • “…. If you have to return to your fallen rider quickly because they appear to be injured or in distress, a power turn may be the best way to get there quickly.
  • You might also have a situation in which your rider appears to be in danger because of approaching boat traffic that would require you to get back to him or her quickly.
  • In these situations, power turning is not only acceptable, but probably a good idea….”

How:

  • Get up to enough speed to spin the boat…if you are a rookie, start slow. You will however need enough speed to make the boat be able to actually spin
  • Cut the throttle while spinning the wheel hard and quick
  • Then after the spin hit the throttle quickly enough or the displaced water will swamp the rear end passengers …and your boat. If you simply spin it and don’t accelerate out of ‘the hole’ the boat will rock. If you sit in ‘the hole’ with too much of a load, you’ll take on water – believe me I’ve done it!

Caution:

 


This is not an offer of a guaranteed return. Always do your due diligence before investing.

7487 Ore Knob Dr, Fenton, MI 48430

The person wanting to see the $399k house at 7487 Ore Knob Dr, Fenton, MI 48430 please provide Anibal-Affiliates-RealtyNetWorth-LakeShannon-why-I-sell-lakefront-rowboat-by-dockyour contact information. Thank you.



This is not an offer of a guaranteed return. Always do your due diligence before investing.

Real estate bubbles, strategies, and the current lakefront market

Are we in a bubble market ? Lakefront property is its own animal. Further, some what Anibal-Affiliates-RealtyNetWorth-LakeShannon-why-I-sell-lakefront-young-couple-at-sunsetan investment, some just a nice home, others a short-term home/investment combination. I see all of these as buyers, sellers, and investors here where I live and approach each customer/client differently. With lakefront, you can enjoy the experience of the water AND make a few bucks with your venture. Recently I’ve seen markups from $130 to $280k, $125 to $400k, $235 to $530k, and $375 to $899k – all with varying degree of investments of time and $’s.

Just read from one of my favorite bloggers who boasts: “15 flips currently in progress. 126 flips completed. 15 rentals properties. Follow me to see how I make money in any market cycle.” So here’s the excerpt & my ‘reply’:

  • “…Low-money-down loans have been available for decades, and that is not what caused the housing crash. Really bad loans to people who should not buy houses is what caused the housing crisis. …”
  • reply: I’m presuming this is a ‘cliff notes’ take on the market since we can’t dispense all knowledge in a post. But my quick 2 cents. As a 2nd generation broker/investor/finance degree holder, bad loans where just a part of the problem. We had funds flowing out of other ‘under performing’ investments…e.g: $’s tend to move from CDs to collectables to stocks to real estate, etc. Further, and this makes the topic more of a localized thing, wages must support prices. Las Vegas had speculators running up prices but buyers weren’t all from out of town so prices couldn’t be sustained. Here in NW Detroit suburbs, we are seeing a lot of new industry coming in and hence price strength above what might be healthy in other parts of MI.

The article goes on to say how the market is not at a bubble stage. I think that greatly oversimplifies. So whats the point I’m making? As in Ecclesiastes 3 “To Everything There is a Season.” With-in 30 miles of each other, I have client investments of which 1 area I feel should be liquidated asap as the appreciation has come fast and peaked, the other could be held for a taxpayer that needs deferred income and no cash flow now, but if cash flow is needed move on. In other words:

  • Look at: investor needs (cash, retirement savings, …)
  • Investor tax situation
  • Investor has more time and abilities or more cash to throw at the portfolio mix
  • General economy but also local economic outlook…. very important.

This isn’t like buying a candy bar.



This is not an offer of a guaranteed return. Always do your due diligence before investing.

For Sale –

A few of the active offerings currently here at the lake. Some are not shown for various reasons.

  • On water homes from about $450-900k. Off water homes and off-water lots also available.

If you’d like a closer look or further information about buying or selling here at the lake, let’s schedule a time and day you can stop by my lakefront home office.

Lake-Shannon-net-Anibal-Affiliates-RealtyNetWorth-2017-06-22



The Boat Launch Blues …. don’t be a victim!

Lakefront property owners, its easy to forget the basics.

  1. Put the plug back in BEFORE dropping boat in the water.
  2. Make sure strap it tight holding the boat on the trailer.
  3. Set the parking brake AND put vehicle in park on the launch site. E-Brake first if you want to save your transmission stress.
  4. Before ‘firing’ up the boat, check your fuel lines for age/cracks, tight battery connections (no sparks), bilge is dry/drained, and inboard hood is UP/OPEN.
    • NOTE FOR PWC owners – treat your PWC like an in-board. Folks have blown these up sending the rider straight up then down with tragic endings.


Winterizing your inboard boat.

Winterizing your inboard ? Well ‘knock on hull’ we’ve never had a frozen block since that first family in-board, a 1971 Correct Craft Mustang.lake-shannon-net-winter-boat-in-ice

You drain, pull hoses, fill w/ RV anti-freeze, roll it over, the refill the hoses and put away right ? Here’s a couple alternatives.

Put this setup in-line between your intake and impeller. Use it when running the boat out of water to save your impeller from damage due to running dry. Further use allows you to inject RV anti-freeze directly. You may ad a shut off toward the pickup side if desired – just make sure to REOPEN after by-pass usage.

1x1x34inchadapter-for-water-intake-to-save-impeller

Its much the same as this commercial product below. But I’ve heard the commercial item can deteriorate and blow apart over time.  I found this Perko Flush Pro Valve – 1″ [0456DP6] for $76 on ebay. Winter flush adapter for inboard ski board



Without proper preparation, storage for long periods of time may cause internal parts of the engine and transmission to rust because of lack of lubrication. Or, if the boat is stored in below freezing temperatures, water in the engine may freeze and cause damage. Damage resulting from improper storage is not covered by the manufacturer’s limited warranty.

NOTE: This is a general procedure that covers winterization basics on several models of Indmar engines. Indmar assumes no responsibility for any damage that might occur from improper winterization of your engine. This procedure covers only the power package portion of your boat. Consult your boat owner’s manual or boat manufacturer for specific boat winterizing instructions. Please read the entire procedure before starting.

Before starting you will need the following supplies:

• Sta-bil Gasoline Stabilizer

• 6 quarts of Pennzoil 15W40 Marine Engine Oil

• Oil Filter

• Fuel Filter

• 4-6 ounces of light weight oil in a pump-type oil can. (SAE 10W or Marvel Mystery Oil or Fogging Oil)

• 1 can WD40 or other Anti-Corrosion Spray

• Transmission Oil (As Required)

• For In-Line and Hurth V-Drive transmissions use Pennzoil Dexron 3 ATF

• For Walters V-Drive use SAE 30W engine oil

• Sierra Brand Anti Freeze (as Required For Closed Cooling System Engines Only)

• Waterproof Marine Multipurpose Grease

• Short Piece of Stiff Wire (Coat hanger wire)

• Anti-Freeze Tester (Closed Cooling Engines Only)

• Pipe Thread Sealant

STEP 1 – Bring Engine to Operating Temperature

• Your boat must be in the water or be attached to a water supply via a hose and suitable adapter that will allow an uninterrupted supply of water to the engine

STEP 2 – Fuel System Treatment

• If the boat is to be placed in storage with fuel in the fuel tank(s) that does not contain alcohol: Fill the fuel tank(s) with fresh fuel that does not contain alcohol and a sufficient amount of Sta-Bil gasoline stabilizer to treat the entire tank. Follow the instructions on the container

• If the boat is to be placed in storage with fuel in the fuel tank(s) that does contain alcohol (if fuel without alcohol is not available): Fuel tank(s) should be drained as completely as possible and Sta-Bil gasoline stabilizer added to any fuel remaining in the tank. Follow the instructions on the container

STEP 3 – Replace the Fuel Filter

• Make sure the boat is in the water or an uninterrupted supply of water is supplied to the engine

• Start the engine and check the fuel filter for fuel leaks. If leaks are found, stop the engine immediately and repair them. Recheck filter installation

• Start the engine and operate it at Idle RPM until it reaches normal operating temperature. (If using a hose and adapter, open the faucet to approximately ½ flow to avoid over-cooling the engine at low RPM) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes to ensure that the fuel stabilizer enters the engine’s fuel system

STEP 4 – Change the Oil and Oil Filter

• Loosen all accessory drive belts. Check their condition. Replace if cracked or damaged.

• Remove the spark plugs and squirt one to two tablespoons of oil (SAE 10W or Marvel Mystery Oil or Fogging Oil) into each of the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Engage the starter to crank the engine over a revolution or two to distribute the oil on the cylinder walls. Replace the spark plugs

STEP 5 – Drain the Cooling System’s Seawater Section

All Engines

• Remove both hoses from the Sea-water pump on the front of the engine. Drain the water from the hoses

• Remove the raw water pump impeller from the pump housing. Lubricate the impeller with Vaseline and store it in an air-tight bag. Replace the impeller if it shows signs of damage or wear

• Remove the hose from the lower (rear) end of the transmission cooler. Inspect the cooler for any debris like weeds, bits of plastic bag etc

• On Walters V-Drive equipped units, remove the two small square headed drain plugs from the front and rear of the upper housing. Look for the words “Water Drain” on the housing. We suggest putting the plugs in a plastic bag and attaching it to the steering wheel of the boat as a reminder for spring recomissioning.

• On units equipped with the Ski-Vee V-drive transmission assembly, remove the drain plugs that are threaded into the heat exchanger at the rear of the V-drive. This will drain water from the heat exchanger and hoses.

Raw Water Cooled Engines

• Drain the water from the exhaust manifolds. On older engines you have to remove the drain plugs from the rear of each manifold. On newer engines, a hose with a quick disconnect fitting connects the manifolds. Uncouple the hose and drain the manifolds. We suggest leaving the drain plugs out or the hose uncoupled till spring. Putting the drain plugs in a plastic bag and attaching it to the steering wheel of the boat acts as a good reminder when you re-commission the boat in the spring.

• Remove the petcock or drain plug from each side of the engine. We suggest removing the petcocks completely, not just opening the petcock drain valve. Take a short piece of stiff wire and poke it around in the drain hole to ensure that any rust scale is broken up and the engine drains completely. Some engines have a knock sensor(s) located in the drain location. The knock sensor(s) must be carefully removed to drain the block. We suggest that you put the drain plugs in a plastic bag and attach it to the steering wheel of the boat to act as a reminder during re-commissioning in the spring.

• Disconnect the large diameter hose that runs from the water circulating pump to the thermostat housing. Make sure all of the water drains from the hose.

Closed Cooled Engines

• Remove the raw water inlet and outlet hoses from the seawater side of the heat exchanger.

• Check the level of the coolant on the fresh water side of the heat exchanger. Also use the anti-freeze tester to test the strength of the mixture.

• We recommend a 50:50 mix of Sierra Anti-Freeze and water, which gives protection down to minus 50 degrees F. If the coolant level is low, add a sufficient amount of coolant/water mix to fill the heat exchanger. When warm, the coolant level should be approximately ¾” below the filler neck.

If the coolant in the heat exchanger is not of sufficient strength, we suggest taking your boat to your dealer and having the coolant replaced. This is not an easy task and it is best done by a professional

STEP 6 – Drive Train Preparation

• Change the transmission fluid in the Hurth In-Line or V-Drive Transmission following the instructions in your Hurth Transmissions Owner’s Manual. Add sufficient Pennzoil Dexron 3 automatic transmission fluid as required to bring the dipstick level between the full and add marks

• On Walter V-Drive units, change the oil in the V-Drive per the instructions in the Walter Owners Manual. Use SAE 30 Motor Oil and fill to the proper level

• Remove the attaching hardware from the propeller shaft coupling. Separate the flanges and coat the surfaces with Waterproof Marine Multipurpose grease

STEP 7 – General Power Package Preparation

• Clean dirt, grime and grease from the painted surfaces of the engine and drive train

• Touch-up painted areas of the engine and transmission

• Lubricate throttle and shift linkages and cables with Waterproof Marine Grease

• Spray any unpainted parts with WD40 or other anti-corrosion lubricant

• Disconnect the battery cables from the battery and charge it fully. If you remove the battery from the boat, store it in a cool and dry place

• Leave the engine box cover propped open about 2” to help ventilate the engine compartment

By following your manufacturer’s directions to winterizing your boat’s engine, you are ensuring the best possible performance from your boat’s propulsion system. Next, winterize the hull and interior of the boat so when spring arrives, you can be confident that the steps you took in the fall will mean less hassle before getting out on the water again in the spring.

WARNING

Because of the complexity of preparing your engine for winter storage, as well as the possibility of catastrophic engine damage from freezing water in the engine, we recommend that you have your dealer accomplish this task. Any damage caused by improper winterization/storage is not covered by the product warranty!