Its been a fabulous summer here at Lake Shannon. Lots of activities and the water is still perfect temp! Last Saturday was the annual ski-show. If you’d like some pictures let me know.
A number of homes have come on market, a couple of which I’m making a ‘buy’ recommendation – others, not as much. Like more specifics from my perspective?
If you’re a seller and would like some comparable solds to start evaluating your home, or a buyer who’d like a narrative w/ each new listing from a life res, let me know & we’ll get going for you.
Fishing & ice 😉
Every year is a bit different.
When I was a kid, good snow meant snowmobile drag racing, no snow gave us the biggest ice rink with all your friend lake friends.
We’ve had an excellent mix this winter.
Still remember shoveling off a huge rink for 7 yr old daughter only to look up and see her straight across on the point w/ a bunch of burly ice fishermen?! … working 3 poles (with cabbage patch dolls on her snow disk).
Right Click – ‘open in new ….’ for best viewing.
Snow & ice 😉
Click HD for best viewing.
For home improvement, care, and maintenance tips, follow this series. We’ve ‘been there, done that’.
SERIES: Your net worth strategy includes caring for your home. This pays dividends when you sell, not just now. The ‘Portfolio Approach’ has never made more sense than now.
ITS COLD OUT!
If you have neighbors in older homes they tend to have hot water heat – so exterior pipes! Remind them and anyone else that may have hot water heat that its best in extreme cold to turn heat UP, not down.
The furnace cycles on/off and when off, water stops moving. The temp at the outside wall will be some average of outside air and the setting on the thermostat. e.g.: Set on 65, outside is -5 then that temp could be under freezing! This is especially true near doors, on the windy side of the house, and where pipes pass thru walls/ floors.
- Open closet doors.
- Allow inside air access to pipes as much as possible.
- Move obstruction from near pipes.
- Know where the water shut off and/ or well shut off is (and a wet vac should things turn ugly).
* Anibal Group LLC does not offer legal advice. This article is not to be considered advice specific to your situation. Most financial decisions should involve advice from a trusted professional of your choice that will advise on insurance, legal, banking/ lending, structural/ property condition, and other transaction significant matters. We can offer referrals for CPA’s and other professionals.
Ice in 😉
Click HD for best viewing.
Click HD for best viewing.
Dock & lift out, blow out sprinkler lines, drain hoses, turn off o/s spigots, clean gutters.
- The inboard
- Covered in detail on this post: https://lakeshannon.net/2016/10/26/winterizing-your-inboard-boat/
- In spring: disable fuel/ignition before attempting to start engine. This will allow the oil to prime as indicated by the manufacturer.
- Synthetic only.. why??? Shear strength .. helps if over heat… Valvoline vr1 or Mobil 1 15w50.. throw in some hyperlube zinc replacement. Motorcraft ok, but I like WIX or Napa platinum..
- The outboard:
- pull prop, grease
- add stabilizer to fuel, run till stall
- fog cyl’s
- pull/ charge batt
- change oil/ filter
- add lube to lower unit ?
- tilt down to drain, then tilt up
- The PWC:
- fill oil tank to prevent condensate
- antifreeze the lines – pull, fill, turn over engine, pull refill
- add gas stabilizer to fuel, then run engine w/ gas off until stall
- fog cyl’s
- pull battery, give a pre-winter charge before storing.
- tilt to prevent water freezing in foot trays
Perspectives I’ve heard:
- “We can start there and then always negotiate down, right?”
- “We don’t have to sell, so lets just see what happens”
- “We have one of the best views on the lake”
Now, what you want from your broker pro is:
- Data and feedback of experiences, yes
- Opinions, not really
- Can those ‘Perspectives’ above be valid?…., perhaps 2 of them.
After 3+ decades as a 2nd generation broker/ and 5+ decades as a lake resident, I’ll start by quoting broker/father “when you overprice, you take the home off the market”. Both with financial degrees, we’ve both offered more of a ‘numbers’ perspective to clients. In my case, I may updates your calculations a number of times during marketing of your property. This gives you as much useful & timely information as possible. Better yet, I keep all of your files and calculations viewable 24/7. Your documents, marketing plan, feedback stats, and current market valuation data are in YourSpace, a personalize web portal, not lost in your emails, texts, and paper files.
So how do we approach pricing?
Per the spreadsheet screen capture above, not all properties should be evaluated using the same method(s). For homes in areas of high similarity (e.g.: same basic age/ size/ style/ school district) I’ll lean toward one method, where dissimilar homes require a different valuation model. Most other valuation approaches I’ve seen ignore 2 very critical data inputs that I find a must.
Another key part of pricing: Going public with overpricing can have negative results. So whats the answer?
- Start realistic (and know what that is)
- Pre-plan price adjustments (and have data to pre-plan when they are best)
- And/ or – have complete control over ‘going public’, with not only a marketing plan, but with a timed roll-out over who will see what, when and know why it makes a big difference from your negotiating perspective.
Like some more information?
Running E-‘anything’?, update those lines and primer bulbs to ethanol compatible. Lines like to break down and clog your system. (I also like to add an extra glass fuel filter between bulb & engine on the outboard.) Note: wave runners are inboards and you do not want to compromise of any fuel line fitments and connectors!!
If possible, store your boat with a full fuel tank….in winter, add a fuel stabilizer ..run the engine for 10 minutes to distribute stabilized fuel into the engine and fuel lines….top off the tank to reduce the amount of exchange with the air that may bring in condensation.
“…E10 may actually be a superior marine fuel, as it tends to keep low levels of water moving through the fuel system, keeping the system “dry”….However…”
E10 is certainly not as trouble-free as E0, especially the first few tankfulls. But for newer engines, those built after about 1991, there’s no reason the initial problems can’t be overcome. No less an authority than Mercury Marine says, “After the transition period from E0, E10 may actually be a superior marine fuel as it tends to keep low levels of water moving through the fuel system, keeping the system ‘dry.'”
https://massageartllc.com is your Lake Shannon answer to a long day on the water.
- A free post run/walk massage is yours for the taking ! … all tips go to Aiden!
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